vendredi 17 octobre 2008

of molecular cooking


Just a few things come to mind following a short portrait of Ferran Adria
Having had the "privilege" of dining at El Bulli a couple of years back, i must admit that it may well have have been the best meal of my life. If it wasn't, then it certainly was the most incredible dining experience.
Adria and his co-deconstructers have certainly achieved one thing : to propulse and establish gastronomy to the same artistic heights as painting, music...
They have certainly "intellectualised" food by decomposing and recomposing the physical aspects of the products, and yet keeping the taste of the product intact as our reference; why should carrot soup be orange and siped from a spoon ? when it could be frothed and just melt in the mouth... why not inhale something before eating something else just to enhance the taste of it ?
The effect is a little similar to cubism i find. Deconstruct to rebuild after.
He brings emotion out of our senses. What's crazier than eating frozen parmasan froth accompanied by red berry muesli ? the savoury coolness and softness of the froth, the crunchiness, aspect mixed with the sweet and sour of the berries... awesome
Having said that, one can't help wondering if such a meal was good or not, as the only reference we have are our taste buds, and most of the (35 in my case) dishes can be eaten almost anywhere. But the deconstruction of the products destabalises the eater to such an extent that he really needs the have the tastes in his gustative memory to appreciate what he is eating.
So one question pops to mind: does one need a gustative education before even thinking of entering such a place ? is this just become a new playgroung for the intellectual elite to distance itself a little more from the "people" ? it this also a new playground for the rich who can affor tanks of liquid nitrogen to cook their gambas at precisely -257 °F ?
It seems weird that molecular cuisine has reached into such scientific detail that one could imagine robots preparing the dishes in the very near future... that would be a great way to mass produce this excellence the the "people" !

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